Increase the 'infill extrusion width' until the infill lines start to overlap - if they start to form pushed up lines between the extrusion lines you need to lower the width until you get a really smooth surface. With those parameters, your results could be like shown in attached photo (note: these are ‘as-printed’ not yet cleaned up. Adjust the 'outline overlap' until the turns of your infill really overlap about 30 with the perimeter. Need to go back to the PEI sheet but it was messing with my auto level and also was. Also, just to be clear, the Z-Axis is homed at a paper's height and the first layer sticks well, possibly too well to the blue tape. I am having an issue with what seems like under extrusion but I think there may be more to it. Depending on your part, internal can be Concentric)Įnsure bottom layer bonds to bed and, you’re better off setting the bed/nozzle gap using a cigarette rolling paper (prefer the silk kind like ZigZag - it’s thin) for a shim. What's up everyone I recently purchased Simplify 3D and before was using Cura. For this layer, I suspect that the outline. As a result, the fill does not get adequate overlap with the perimeters and itself (as shown). Because this layer is raised above the raft for easier separation, the extrusion isnt pressed flat and spread out as it is on all other normal layers. Infill: Rect (both internal and external). Specifically, Outline Overlap and Extrusion Multiplier. Infill angle (add one for -45deg to get good cross-hatch). When box say 220max, I use 235C.īed Temp: 50C until the part is done (otherwise, part can release from bed and move) Print Temp: When the FF box says 210max, I use 225. These triangles fit together to define the overall shape of your geometry and they are the basis for the STL and OBJ file formats. Digital models on your computer are typically represented by a large list of triangles. PLA Material - I won’t use Hatchbox again (I tossed out several spools). This tutorial will teach you about common mesh errors that you may encounter with your 3D printer. Your print fills parts too much faster than the outline. For example, you used 15 overlap before, try increasing to 20 to see if the gap between edge and fill disappears. This overlap helps to ensure that the two parts are strongly bonded. The Outline Overlap 90 means the width of the Perimeter is also increased in size, thus making it less precise. I print many parts like yours for my Arduino gizmo’s - holes for buttons, switches, LCD, screws… these Printing tips may help… (some mentioned by others) The fill will overlap 15 with the outermost edge. The Outline Overlap 90 is overlapping the perimeter so much that its pushing it out of shape ever so slightly, thus making it less precise.